Dietro Front in Florence, Italy

I took a picture of this sculpture a long time ago when we were visiting Florence, Italy. Something about it spoke to me, made me feel like it was something quite unique and special.

Here I am, about 10 years later, revisiting old photographs and feeling that this sculpture now speaks to me, once again, but this time in a different way.

Dietro Front in Italian translates to "about turn", "about face", or "to turn around in the opposite direction". The artist once described his work as simply that - this statue is placed in the intersection of Porta Romana, and one womanly figure points in the direction toward Florence while the other figure points away from Florence leading the way to Rome. Simple, right?

But is his work meant to be a beautiful street sign? Or is the meaning more deep? Do we want to venture out from home and explore, while at the same time there is something pulling us, or holding us back, seeking an "about turn"?

The Florentines have given this sculpture other nicknames, including the "headache" or "unbalanced". Easy to understand, don't we all feel a heavy weight on our head or shoulders at some point in time, especially these days? But is that the focus? Should it be the focus?

Whether it is the weight of the world, or a weight of wanting to go back - go back home, or go back to the way things were, the way things used to be - the bottom figure is strong. We are strong, we are resilient, and that is just beautiful.

Bialetti Espresso Press

Many years ago after my husband and I rendevued throughout the streets of Italy, I became an espresso drinker, of course. And not only was I an espresso drinker, but when I came back home, I realized I was quite a picky espresso drinker. So I ended up testing out coffee shops and espresso makers, and ultimately fell in love with the Bialetti Espresso Press.

Fast forward a few years and my poor espresso press broke, by no fault of its own, purely by user error. I once again dabbled in using some of the espresso makers and richer coffee makers that we had on hand, but none of them took me back to the streets of Rome as much as my Bialetti. Add it to the list of so many great things that are made in Italy.

So buy another one, I surely did, and promise to take care of it, I will!

London before Boxing Day

These pictures may not do it justice, but London can get pretty crowded this time of year. Let's just say although these streets are made for a motor vehicle, there was no way a car was getting through...

The London Arcades

Not to be confused with the other version of arcades, where kiddos drop coins in a machine to play their favorite games, the London Arcades are much more sophisticated. At the London Arcades, there is shop after shop after shop.

London is filled with these "arcades" throughout the city. Each entrance is adorned with beautiful architecture. And the arcades are even more decorated come the Christmas season.

Visit London. Visit the Arcades.

Harrod's in London

Harrod’s is an upscale department store in the Royal Borough of Kensington, London. First founded in 1824 by Henry Harrod at the age of 25, the business started as a curtains and linens type store. Later, Henry explored the grocery wholesale business with an expressed interest in different teas. The next generation to acquire the store, Charles Harrod, dabbled into the market of perfumes, stationery, and fresh produce. Despite a fire early on in the business, the store continued to grow and thrive, generation after generation.



And here's a bit of trivia... Harrod’s was the first store to debut the “moving staircase” in England, more commonly known today as the escalator. Today, there are many, many moving staircases in the more than one million square feet the store occupies with over 300 different departments. Sadly, they no longer offer the brandy at the top of the staircase, as they did when it first rolled out in order to ease customers' tensions from this futuristic feature. Plus, I’m sure it didn’t hurt to help push sales. Maybe they should bring back that concept?

When in London, Harrod’s department store is a must see. Around Christmas time, it is famous for its lavish decorations and crowded halls during the boxing day sales. Also, there is an extremely impressive food court, one of the more high end food courts with decadent savory dishes, if you can get your hands on something amongst the crowd.

Liberty in London

Liberty is a historic department store located on Regent Street in the West End shopping district of London.

In 1874, with a £2,000 loan from his future father-in-law, Arthur Lasenby Liberty set up a shop on Regents Street selling ornaments, fabric and artistic household objects from various other countries. Eighteen months later, Mr. Liberty had fully repaid the loan, expanding into more and more space along Regents Street, adding carpets and furniture into his shop.

Becoming one of the most fashionable places to shop in London, Liberty launched an in-house apparel line to challenge the fashions of Paris. With these contemporary in-house designers, the store became associated with the new style of Art Nouveau, referred to in Italy as Stile Liberty, after the store of its origins.

Today’s Liberty is housed in a Tudor revival building. It was in 1924 that this new store was constructed from the timbers of two ships. The department store was planned around three wells that formed the main focus of the building. Each of these wells was surrounded by smaller rooms to create a homey feel. Many of the rooms had fireplaces, which still exist today. The wells created a platform to drape exotic rugs and quilts, with side rooms for the display of smaller items.

Arthur Lasenby Liberty died in 1917, seven years before the completion of today’s majestic Liberty home, but his name will live on forever as one of the most prestigious stores in London. Stop by, if only just to browse the multiple floors of clothing and home goods, and the design of the building itself.

Fortnum & Mason, London

William Fortnum was a footman, Hugh Mason was his landlord. In 1707 the two collaborated to set up shop together and the rest is history. Quintessentially English, Quintessentially British, Fortnum & Mason is exquisite both inside and out.

With it's many foods, fruits, spices, and teas, Fortnum's is most famously a proper food hall. The store started due to William Fortnum's hobbying interest in being a grocer. Later, his grandson Charles would introduce more specialty items and luxury ready-made foods. Fortnum's is after all the inventor of the Scotch egg, a savory egg dish dating back almost 300 years! Obviously Fortnum's is where one might go to get their Christmas pudding.  And it's all about quality here, folks. Food lovers rejoice.

Six flights high, each floor seems to have its own personality to add to the story:

Basement - wine, cheese, chocolate, and charcuterie
Ground floor - tea, coffee, and confectionery
First floor - home goods, hampers*, china, glassware, ice in the Parlor, and the Candle room**
Second floor - dedicated to the ladies with jewelry, handbags, perfumes, hat making, and pampering rooms
Third floor - personal items and personalized items, including leather goods and accessories for the gents
Fourth floor - the Queen's Diamond Jubilee Tea salon

Not bad for a grocery market turned department store.

Though was Fortnum a mere footman, he held this position in the royal house of Queen Anne, no less. Shortly thereafter Fortnum's grandson, Charles, also served Royalty, Queen Charlotte. Needless to say, Fortnum's is entrenched in British Royal history. A royal family favorite.

Not only are the products themselves fancy smancy, but the store itself is a site to see. Decorated in marble and crystal and all things lovely, it's easy to feel a look-but-don't-touch mentality. Even from the outside just the window dressings themselves can gawk attention.

So, while in London, touring the sights, popping in and out of pubs, don't forget to soak it all in with a stop by this oldie but goodie. Located a stone's throw away from its humble beginnings in St. James's Market, the flagship store on Picadilly Street is a must see.

* Mind you, when we say hampers here, it means a picnic basket, not a basket where one might toss dirty garments.

** The Candle Room is iconic considering capital for the enterprise came when Fortnum the footman was selling the Royal family's discarded candles for re-use. Talk about any early renewables initiative! One we are all quite thankful for.

Dinner at Wiltons in London

Do you ever rustle your hands into your pockets and happen to come across something you didn't know was in there? It's one of my favorite things.

Well the other day my husband went to put on his winter Barbour and felt something in his pocket. Instinctively he pulled it out and we both took a look. We looked up at one another and just smiled. It was an old receipt from Wiltons in London. A momentary reminiscence.

Dinner at Wiltons is not something someone would quickly forget. The Oysters were so fresh that you could taste the Ocean. They were the perfect accompaniment to our bubbly champagne. Then there was the Crab appetizer and Lobster Bisque, followed by my delicious Sea Bass and my husband's classic Roasted Pheasant. We finished with some Port, Chocolate Molten Cake, and a Fruit tart. Yum, yum, and yum! Worth every pound...

Wiltons

55 Jermyn Street

London
just down the street from the Ritz

Where to eat Indian Food in London

Located down a quiet, enduring side street off the busily buzzing corner of Picadilly and Regent Street, the restaurant seems to have been swallowed up by time (how fitting, considering the entrance is on Swallow Street). It's Harry Potter's Diagon Alley. So, don't expect door to door taxi service. To get inside, one must approach via a pedestrian only alley. Talk about old school. It's cool.

Veeraswamy was opened in 1926 by Edward Palmer, the great-grandson of an English soldier and an Indian princess, and is the oldest surviving Indian restaurant in the United Kingdom.

The menu changes with seasonality, which is obvious from the the freshness of the dishes. That said, there is still an abundance of offerings, ranging from your usual Indian offerings to specialties of the house. But in short, the food is just delicious. Highly recommended.

Veeraswamy

99 Regent Street

Picadilly Circus, London

Christmas at the Ritz

Above photograph courtesy of The Ritz London

A few years ago we delighted in celebrating Christmas at The Ritz. It was everything and anything it was supposed to be. We were greeted by the bellhops that somehow already knew us by name and continued to remind us of such for our entire stay. Service with a smile. Talk about feeling at home.

Inside, the tree surely was a sight to see, and became better and better as we ascended to our room, lights flowing down the middle of the staircase providing a transparent curtain of intrigue.

Above photograph courtesy of The Ritz London

Spending the holidays in London is a treasure in itself, but staying at The Ritz put the cherry on top. Each night I would marvel as we strolled our way back across town to the hotel. One night I even had the cab drop us off a few blocks away so we could merry in the wonder of the site of it all.

Florence, Italy

It was a rainy day when we went to Florence, but that didn't change a thing. Rain or shine, this city sparkles with a medieval beauty.

View from the Ponte Vecchio

Rome, Italy

The ancient city of Rome... A power house rich with history.

ROME BY DAY

The Colosseum

Looking up and around you hear the roaring of the spectators, feel the courage of the gladiators, and you yourself feel small. 

The Ruins

Sure you can buy a pass to tour the Roman Forum, but what really amazes me is that Roman ruins can be seen just walking down the street. They are all around the Eternal City. It's amazing that the ancient architecture has been able to be preserved. They just don't make 'em like they used to…

One of the many angels lining the Ponte Sant'Angelo with a view of St. Peter's and Vatican City.

Edinburgh, Scotland

Last year, in the beginning of December, we took our first trip to Scotland.  The country had always been a top contender on our ever-growing list and it surely did not disappoint.  Expectations were met and exceeded. 

We started our journey overseas by way of Heathrow airport, and spent a few days in our favorite city abroad.  Then, we headed North by way of train, and wouldn't do it any other way.  It was a lovely way to see the country side and get a feel for this land of Scots.

 There were a lot of sheep...

And I don't know what was better, the picturesque scene of this bordering town, or the town's actual name, Berwick-upon-Tweed.

We arrived mid-afternoon and soon found there's the Old Town of Edinburgh, and the New Town of Edinburgh, which is divided by Princes Street.  Our lovely Hotel Balmoral planted the perfect location between both Old Town and New Town, and was right next to the train station stop. 

Edinburgh was founded as early as the 7th century with it's name literally translating to fort, referring to the natural rock formations on which the castle now sits.

Paris Eats

Lovely Paris (sigh)... not only does it fill me up with joy from the wonderfully sculpted architecture to the surrounding history, but also because of its delicious cuisine!

While you really can't go wrong popping into any one of the given cafes on every street corner, there are still a few favorites. Here are some of mine broken out by hot spot locations:

Montmarte/Sacre Coeur (18th Arr.)
When you are up visiting the Sacre Coeur and admiring the view from Montmarte, do as the Parisians do and grab some street food, a bottle of wine, and pop a squat on the steps of the church. Watch the sunset over the city - a view worth savoring.

Or, head over to the Place du Tertre.  It's a garden full of local artists. In the center is the artists' square, which has been popular for years with famous artists like Pablo Picasso, Salvador Dali, and Vincent Van Gogh, just to name a few. Even today, the place is packed with aspiring painters, potters, and sculptures galore. In the image below, an artist was painting the square from his studio window. 

St. Andrew's, Scotland

When we mentioned to our friends and family that we were headed to Scotland, we kept hearing that we had to add a visit to St. Andrew's on the itinerary. I'm so glad we listened.

St. Andrew's is closely synonymous with golf thanks to The (British) Open. 

Originally, the Swilcan Bridge was used by herders to move livestock over the small creek (pre-golf era). In 2010 Tom Watson made this bridge famous by bending down and giving it a kiss as he crossed over to the last hole in his presumed last play of the Old Course at St. Andrew's.

Macarons

So, by now we all have seen the cupcake craze sweep the nation.  From Georgetown Cupcake, to Sprinkles, to Crumbs, and many more, it's hard to find a town without a specialty cupcake shop.  Yes, we Americans surely do have a sweet tooth, there is no denying it. 

Lately, a more recent fad has been sweeping DC by storm; it is the macaron.  But by macaron, I don't mean the coconut "macaroon" with the same pronunciation, but rather the original French macaron, which is more like a delicious petite creme sandwich made up of two meringue-like wafers.  It's light and airy, but still quenches that sweet treat craving.  A not-so-guilty pleasure.

I first tried a French macaron on one of our trips abroad.  All over Paris and London you can find a shop called Ladurée.  And get this, they are opening one up in NYC very soon!

While we don't have a Laduree in DC yet, we do have Macaron Bee in Georgetown.  Or, Sweet Lobby in Capitol Hill has delicious French Macarons.  Try one and see if you think it might be the next big thing.  I have my fingers crossed in hopes of it.

PAUL Bakery

In honor of Bastille Day today, I am writing to you about an amazing French bakery that has made its way to DC.  Now when I say French bakery, I legitimately mean French bakery.  It's the real deal.  PAUL bakeries can be found all over the U.K. in France and London, and now, they are right here in the U.S., with three locations in our nation's capital!  I was excited when I heard they were bringing this fine establishment to my neighborhood of Georgetown.

London

London, England should be a must-see on the bucket list for everyone. It's the very essence of many of our American customs, culture, and traditions. And okay, I'll go ahead and say it - there is a big plus in that there is no language barrier. While most other countries where English is not the primary language (France, Greece, Italy, Spain, etc.), the natives do typically still speak English, but there's that hinge of guilt that never leaves your side from feeling like an outsider. In London, all is equal with regards to communication, that is, assuming you understand each other's accents.

But aside from language ease, when it comes to London, there is just so much to do. Like most major cities, you can spend days moving around from place to place and still not cover it all. What is nice though about the set-up of the city of London is that there are a few tourist attractions that are within range of one another to be done in a day. They really are must see sites, and include attractions that have to be seen in person to truly appreciate the scope and magnitude of their significance.

First, of course, is the Royal Palace, more commonly known as Buckingham Palace. Since 1837 Buckingham Palace has been the official London residence of Britain's sovereigns; more currently it serves as the administrative headquarters of the Monarch. In May, June, and July, you can catch the changing of the guard around 11am.  An interesting fact to know is that the Queen is in residence when four guards are present at the gate, versus two guards when the Queen is away.